The capital of Turkmenistan is changing rapidly. Multi-storey buildings built on money from gas export are springing in the centre of the city. Glass, marble and steel are gradually supplanting small brick houses with colourful gates and shutters surrounded by high walls. Entire old districts have disappeared in order to make space for the modern buildings. New Ashgabat is really impressive and - many would say - beautiful. However it is overshadowed by the poverty of ordinary Turkmen, who do not get too much of their country’s wealth. Not many of them can afford to live in the elite districts.

However, one can still find here picturesque backstreets with narrow, unasphalted streets full of cats basking in the sun, just like these:

Aren’t they nice?